WWWBD ~ Adolescence or Aggression?

Is this adolescence or aggression? or Why is my 6-month-old still so sharky?!

OP states that her 6-month-old Bernese Mountain Dog is getting pretty excited and mouthy when outside with her. I didn't post her bruises, but honestly, she looks like a battered woman. I have seen some of you come to classes like that, too. Having experienced even an excited "smurf pinch" (as we call them) from the front teefs on multiple occasions, I feel you guys so hard. You have a large dog, and they can really get a hold of the most sensitive spots on you.

So what do you do in these cases?

This would be the time for a huge, multi-fasceted approach when I step into the ring with this big duder. This, at its root, is an impulse control and emotional regulation problem. We don't want to make time with us scary or painful, just appropriate for the species (humans are soooo delicate 🤣). Be assured that in most cases, this is a puppy that has not learned how to play appropriately with humans. It is not aggressive; it just feels that way. You still have the friendly giant you thought you were getting. You just need to get to work. When it is aggression (extremely rare), you know it. This can easily become more aggressive as your pup ages, and if you try to resolve this with pain, fear, or intimidation.

~The first thing we do is talk with the entire family and make sure NO ONE (looking at you, dad) is playing with the dog with their arms and hands. Once you make limbs a toy, you can't expect a dog not to play with it, or to differentiate between your limbs and those of your 80-year-old mom or 1-year-old niece.

~We're going to make sure pup has a good outlet for chomping. Rope toys, sturdy toys for tugging, or even an appropriately sized rubber toy (Hurley, Kong bone, etc.). We can take that with us to redirect him to chewing on that instead of my arm. For some breeds, carrying something to chomp on can be very helpful. Think retrievers for whom having nothing in their mouth feels so wrong.

~We are going to practice slow, naturally engaging walks where sniffing is encouraged. If your pup starts sniffing, toss something they can sniff for and let them "find it". Once you start reinforcing sniffari's, that becomes a pretty irresistible game. Teaching them games other than "grab my arm flab" is preferable and far less painful. This is where I love my long lines and a good field filled with tall grass. It's a workout that leaves them too tired for piranha activities.

~We are also going to make sure pupper has enrichment opportunities outside of our walks and play. If this is his ONLY chance for enrichment all day, he will certainly be much more excited for it.

~We're going to make sure that we practice good walking manners. When outside, it becomes a learning experience, not just a walk. If you or your pup becomes too frustrated or overwhelmed, you end the session. You can come back out in a bit and try again. Break halfway through and let them go wild. This is when you will get out that tug toy and let them have at it!!

~You are going to practice some Rile 'em up & Settle 'em down (Thank you, Dr. Dunbar). You will rehearse having your pupper get super pumped and worked up, then a solid down and stay. Impulse control games are going to be so important here. Games like "leave it" and "stay" are all cues that mandate building impulse control for.

~Remember that this is not a situation that children should be involved in training until the dog is under much better control of themselves. Child safety is of paramount importance, and we can help mature children learn how to work with them on impulse control cues at home, where it is quieter and less stimulating.

~You do not want to hurt or scare your pup when they make mistakes (trust me...I know it takes the patience of a Saint here), because you don't want play to be scary, just appropriate.

~IF it is to the point you can't take it anymore and the dog is causing serious harm, muzzle train. Condition them to wear a muzzle carefully and thoroughly so that it isn't a source of frustration that they are constantly trying to wipe or claw off their face.

~Remember that this is not a situation that children should be involved in training until the dog is under much better control of themselves. Child safety is of paramount importance, and we can help mature children learn how to work with them on impulse control under ideal situations, like in the house, when things are a bit quieter.

~You will likely have to work with your pup on impulse control when children are running and screaming, too, if you have kids. His first inclination is going to be to match energy. The best dog parents teach dogs what to do in each situation instead of waiting for the dog to make the decision for them. They utilize "set-ups" and take precautions to prevent rehearsals of inappropriate behaviour. They know ahead of time what situations will take precedence for training work, and that usually is centered around child safety.

Now think to yourself...this is where we start. It looks overwhelming, and honestly, starting as soon as you bring them home is so preferable. Meeting with a force-free trainer prior to getting your puppy can be so beneficial and can help you prioritize, adjust your behaviour,

and get a plan together. Going back and fixing mistakes or oversights is often a lot more work, but hey, we're here for that too!

Have any other problems you need answers to? Submit them to me, and you could be featured in our next blog/social media post. Trainers - if you have other advice, please drop it in the comments!!! WE need to get help for these battered (not deliciously, painfully battered) humans!